October 2008

Wednesday 1st October:   Still at Aydat close to the lake, and the only people on site, Paul polished the van and we enjoyed having the place to ourselves.

Thursday 2nd October:  Left the site and drove south, stopping near St Flour for diesel and groceries (couldn’t resist buying some multi-coloured wool to crotchet a blanket only to later realise I didn’t have a crotchet hook!), passing vast scenery, pretty French villages, houses with window boxes - their flowers still in bloom and into the Midi-Pyrenees Region.

I chose an Aire from the book and did the map reading – how was I supposed to know the ‘yellow’ roads are almost single track lanes?!  Quietly crossed my fingers a number of times as Paul squeezed Nel through the rural countryside!  Arrived 6pm at Pont de Salaras, not far from the A75, the Aire having just 5 spaces in a car park beside the river at the end of town.  We grabbed the 4th space and 30 seconds later someone got the final 5th space, we then sat and watched as about 15 other vans came and went in search of a place for the night.  As we settled in the heavens opened, the rain hitting the roof like machine gun fire!

Friday 3rd October:  4am! Woken by a loud “air-raid-like” siren going off close behind us!  Paul supposing that it could be a flood warning, jumped up to see if the nearby river had engulfed the car park.  We peered out into the dark, half expecting to see all the villagers running around up to their waists in water but thankfully no, everything was as before and no one else even took any notice of it!  The “all clear” then sounded and rather bemused we returned to bed.

Back on the road again driving past rolling lush green fields, then on past rocky outcrops and huge gorges towards the famous Millau Bridge -‘the world’s highest bridge’- paid the toll and pulled up in the provided car park to take photos.  Wow!  We approached the bridge with excited and slightly nervous expectations, only to be somewhat relieved if slightly disappointed, as it wasn’t how we had imagined! It wasn’t scary at all!  The bridge has wide hard shoulders with high side windshields that act as barriers on either side, so you can’t really appreciate the views and awesome height that you are at.

With the weather now damp, grey and drizzly we decided to continue south down to the Med to find some sunshine and warmth!  Many hours and miles later we pulled off the main road and as we passed through a town with palm tree lined streets, got our first glimpse of the sea!  We passed a lagoon full of pink flamingos and large areas with muscle farming beds spread out across the shallow water.  It was still windy but at least we had found blue sky!  We continued on through the large industrial town of Sete and then followed the coast road, passing holiday resorts before heading back inland to avoid a toll road.  Arrived 7.15pm at St-Pierre-sur-Mer having driven down some wonderful country lanes to this lovely Aire, a large, natural, quiet site with a few other vans dotted around under trees next to a lagoon.

Saturday 4th October:  Went exploring and strolled along the beachside promenade under a bright blue sky with the sparkling med on our left and the Pyrenees in the distance. Saw someone bungee jump near the market in a large car park, the crane attracting a crowd of French Students.  Back at the van we sat in the sunshine having decided we didn’t fancy doing a bungee jump today!

Sunday 5th October:  Paul took the bikes off the rack and repaired a puncture.  Left at midday (yep, it’s really warm), we rode back to the market where I got a crotchet hook!  We then went along the seafront and around the harbour arm where we ate our picnic whilst watching a man bait digging for worms (in about 2 foot of water which neither of us had seen before).  Paul found the local dive centre and we then carried on along the promenade to Narbonne Plage where we stumbled upon another Aire at the top of the beach. (noted for possible future visit)  Returned to the van after this little warm-up 11 mile bike ride.

Monday 6th October:  I sat on the step of the van reading while Paul went through our recent photos and I helped him with the names of places that we have visited so far.  Drove into the village for some provisions and emptied and filled our tanks before returning to same site but different pitch, with a better view over the lagoon.

Tuesday 7th October:  Cloudy all day, Paul worked on his ongoing Wreck Project.  I tried to do some crotchet without a pattern and went round in circles!  I gave up and did some sewing – my new mission: to make a patchwork top using the T shirts from Primark (I need new scissors).  Spoke to mum and dad; they gave me instructions for a crotchet pattern over the phone.  I tried all night only to end up in knots!

Wednesday 8th October:  Packed up to leave, spoke to a German lady who lives in the Black Forest, she said she comes here to get away from the trees!  We drove out through the other side of the village past many holiday homes, all shut up for the winter.  Passing rocky outcrops and many vineyards we headed west to the large town of Narbonne where I noticed a huge Citroen 2CV centre and 2CV breakers yard! Excellent!  Piles of multi coloured, rusty old French nostalgia - made a note for when we get our next car!!

Arrived at a campsite early evening, just outside the medieval walled City of Carcassonne and walked alongside the midi canal towards the imposing City in front of us, as rain clouds darkened in the distance.  Enjoyed a couple of hours exploring the ramparts and looking at the lovely architecture - and shops!  Back to the van in time for dinner deciding we had seen what we came to see just as the heavens opened.

Thursday 9th October: The Long Day!  Left site good time, drove out through the un-walled, modern part of the City, turned left, left and left again around a car park, before eventually finding our way out of town.

We passed yet more perfectly straight rows of vineyards with the Pyrenees looming in the distance.  Miles later, we stopped for a break in a lay-by just outside Foix, now at the foot of the Pyrenees we could see snow on the peaks in the distance.

And so, on to St-Girons, a place I had earmarked, as had read about its fabulous Hippy Market held on Saturdays.  I had looked forward to visiting St-Girons for some time and had built a mental picture in my mind of how it would be - sadly though, with nowhere to park up near the town centre and not being anything like we had imagined, we disappointedly drove on out and headed towards an Aire at St-Croix-Volvestre.  We found the remote village Aire, beside a lonely football pitch and quickly decided it wasn’t for us.  Pressing on we passed through the Grotte du Mas d’Azul - an impressive cave, where the road sweeps through an awesome rock tunnel, cut by nature through the side of a mountain.  Some hours later and we had driven in a huge circle ending up back at Foix again.  With a lack of Aires in the area and with evening drawing in, we decided to head to a campsite at Camurac and trusted Nel’s sat-nav to get us there as quickly as possible – WRONG decision! - we found ourselves driving up into the mountains in the dark, on pitch black hairpin bends with bent and twisted barriers, at one point swerving to avoid an oncoming car on our side of the road!  Very relieved, we eventually made it to the mountain village campsite in one piece.

I knew there was something wrong as Paul walked back to the van from the dimly lit reception building – he had just read a notice pinned to the door that explained the site was currently closed due to unforeseen family circumstances!  So we drove on, feeling slightly lost in the mountains, before seeing lights in a valley below and headed down towards what we hoped was a town.  It took ages as we wound our way down the mountain side, arriving late at night in the town of Ax-les-Thermes.  Fortunately we saw a few other vans parked alongside the river and we tucked up for the night beside them.

Both shattered, we sat and sighed in relief just as the bloody water pipe under the wardrobe decided to burst again! What a day!

Friday 10th October:  Heading for Spain over the Pyrenees, we were surrounded by stunning scenery, autumnal colours and distant snow capped peaks.  Before we knew it we were driving across the border into Andorra and deciding to take the scenic route (not the easy route through the tunnel) were soon passing through Andorra’s awesome mountain peaks and pretty ski resorts, stopping only in the main town of Andorra La Vella, where we filled up with diesel (the cheapest we had seen for ages at just 99 cents per litre).  Got pulled up at customs on leaving and an officer came on board, opened a couple of cupboards and obviously scared by all the junk that was about to spill out on top of him, he soon exited and sent us on our way.

Drove into Spain and followed the N260 through the mountains, before stopping in a lay-by (way too close to the edge for my liking!) at 1725 metres high in the middle of nowhere; sat outside in the hot Spanish sunshine to eat our lunch, overlooking a lush valley, while large birds of prey circled high above us.  Followed the road cutting through many long tunnels, then up, up and up with virtually no other traffic on a narrow winding road.  After a steep climb we rounded one corner to be met by a large flock of sheep in the road, passing their somewhat bemused shepherd, Paul smiled and shouted “Hola!” – It’s great to be back in Spain.

We arrived at our chosen campsite - Alta Ribagorca, near El Pont de Suert at 5pm and settled in on an open but uneven grass area of the site, surrounded by trees, with leaves of varying shades of red and orange.

Saturday 11th October:  As I came out from the shower block, I bumped into the lady from Reception who gave me the WiFi login code to try to get a signal from the van.  I sat out of Paul's way and did some sewing, whilst he (resembling a comic scene from a Mr Bean episode), climbed around the van with the lap top, trying to receive the weak WiFi signal.

Sunday 12th October:  A damp chilly day, we moved pitch onto the terraced area of the site to be more level and to try and improve on the WiFi signal.  Paul worked more on the website and I did some more sewing!  I love it, it’s great!  The day went really quickly.  Rigged up a mains light in the middle of the van using the plastic table lamp and the "I just knew that would come in handy" plastic clip that had held my (fake) ugg boots together! Listened to some brilliant jazz music on the radio in the evening, it was really good.

Monday 13th October:  Another damp chilly day spent sewing!  We are now the only people on site; we popped into the bar and chatted to the owner Ana, who fortunately speaks very good English.

Tuesday 14th October:  Bright and sunny decided today must be a washing day.  Put a load in and about to return to check on it, I saw that someone had hung all my washing up on the line! Found out it was Ana, so I thanked her and she said if we wanted anything from the village to let her know as she goes there daily.  Later in the day she picked me up in her truck and we drove into the village chatting all the way, as she explained she paints murals and teaches Art at the local School part time.

Wednesday 15th October:   Paul worked on the website - I sat in the sun and read a book!  It seemed strange sitting there as the leaves fell off the trees around me, my peace only interrupted by the chattering of magpies and the crunching of leaves underfoot as I followed the sun around the pitch.

Listened to some groovy music in the evening and had a bit of a disco.

Thursday 16th October:  Whilst making the coffee in the morning I looked out and counted eight magpies just outside – what do eight represent I wondered as I recited the rhyme in my head.

Walked up behind the campsite hoping to climb to the rocky peak behind us – soon returning on realising that we would need to be serious rock climbers to do it!  On the way back down a preying mantis ambushed us – jumping out onto my shoe! Equally as dangerous, we then decided to walk along the road (huge trucks hurtling past us) to the garage for a freshly baked baguette.  Back to site as a Dutch couple arrived with their caravan – we were not alone!

Friday 17th October:  Rang David and both sang Happy Birthday to him!  Poor lad!

We went out in the van leaving chocks and Crocks to reserve our pitch, a beautiful sunny day we followed the road that snakes its way through the valley.  Passing through many tunnels and past a dam at Foga before entering the amazing new 6km long Tunnel de Vielha.  The tunnel seems never ending as it cuts gently downhill through the mountain to the town of Vielha below.  Eventually re-emerging into the daylight we passed a row of snow ploughs all lined up in readiness for winter, before doing a U-turn in the town and back up through the tunnel – if we’d had carried on much further we would have been back in France!  Up to the Aigűestortes and Sant Maurici National Parks, then back down to Barruera where we parked next to the river and ate our lunch.  Marched across a suspension bridge that shook and wobbled violently as Paul bounded off leaving me quaking in the middle!  We then spent the afternoon driving (Stratford Style) through the Boi Valley’s stunning villages, valleys and mountain passes, all vibrant with autumn colour.  Climbing up to well beyond where a Motorhome should go, we ended up at a deserted ski resort where the road ran out! Paul did a 3 point turn on a narrow mountain pass whilst I screamed at him!

Saturday 18th October:  Woke to grey skies, pleased that we had made the most of the bright sunny day yesterday.  I thumbed through a recipe book and decided to cook a Thai Green curry – I didn’t have half the ingredients but gave it a go regardless!  It ended up very green – something to do with the tin of peas that I added I think, a substitute for the missing green stuff!

Sunday 19th October:  Decided it was time to move on and we chose a site to the south west at Lake Caspe, on the River Ebro near Zaragoza.

We followed the river through the valley and stopped beside the huge Embalse de Escales for lunch and photos.  We passed another dam, driving on through tunnels like rabbit warrens blasted through the mountain side, then down and out the other side onto a large lush green plateaux - a real contrast - passing sunflowers, and a farm full of camels!  It got warmer and warmer and more remote, eventually we crossed the River Ebro at the Mequinenza Dam.

Arrived at the campsite late afternoon (boiling hot!) where there were a few other vans including the same Dutch couple from the previous site! We set up camp then strolled down to the lake to see well equipped boats with anglers fishing for catfish.  Sat up till midnight with the door open, being a comfortable 18º. It’s a lovely site but annoyingly plagued with millions of flies.

Monday 20th October:  Bikes off the rack, sandwiches made and we were off!  We rode along a dirt track adjacent to the lake, it got up to about 22º, we had a lovely ride, it was very strenuous on the rough track, loose ground and very hilly.  We sat in the shade on some rocks for a well earned lunch and a rest! Came across someone’s vegetable patch, with huge marrow, peppers, tomatoes and aubergines being grown; with no house in sight and the nearest road a few miles away – who does it belong to we wondered?  Our route eventually took us back on a road and up a very steep hill, really tough – I gave up and laid down under a tree for a minute or so until the feeling that my heart may burst had passed, then we free-wheeled down, reaching speeds in excess of the limit signs.  Back at base we sat outside the van resting and swatting flies.

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Tuesday 21st October:  Paul got the kayak down from the loft, along with the buoyancy aides, fought in the back of the garage to get the paddles out and set it all up.  With the temperature up to 30º we sat in the shade waiting for the day to get a bit cooler before we set off.  Having walked the kayak down to the slipway we paddled out across the huge lake.  Turning left toward the lowering sun, we passed 4 herons perched up high on the rocks, no doubt keeping a watchful eye on their competition that fished from the many angling boats dotted across the lake.  The wind picked up as we turned around and headed back in an hour or so later.  It was great, an opportunity not to be missed.  Later in the evening we chatted to a German couple who come here twice a year for the fishing, they told us the wind often picks up late afternoon, so much so on one windy day, two fisherman had drowned (and were never found) – glad I didn’t know that before we’d set off!

Wednesday 22nd October:  Poured with rain during the night – so much for leaving the kayak out to dry!  A real change in temperature, down by nearly 20 degrees!  Sat in the van catching up, reading, writing and remembering not to moan when it gets too hot!

Cooked another experimental dinner – Bean and vegetable chilli!

Thursday 23rd October:  Left site about midday having packed the kayak up we headed to a site on the coast.  A beautiful journey though unfortunately it poured with rain for most of it.  Arrived at the campsite at L’Ametlla de Mar about 4pm and walked around the site, passing olives groves and down over the rocks onto the beach.

Friday 24th October:  Very windy during the night, the wind howled past the bike cover making it flap all night.  Donning empty rucksacks we walked along the deserted coastal path – crumbled away in places - dropped down into the harbour and then through the town, stocked up with a few bits and we walked back along the road to the site – a lot quicker.

Saturday 25th October:  On the move again, we left site to explore the nearby Ebro river delta, a vast, flat wetland peninsular.  Passing many rice fields and various wildfowl, we came off the main road and drove into a small port where the river meets the sea, a beautiful little place called Porte de Deltebre, with a couple of shops, restaurants and pleasure boats moored up.  Finding a fabulous spot beside the river, we parked up for a spot for lunch.

Later back on the busy coast road we stopped at a Lidl for a huge stock up before arriving at Peñíscola – and a campsite recommended to us.  Walked around the large site in search of a good pitch in the sun.  A nice site, completely full of elderly people set in for the winter!  We chose a pitch tucked up in a little corner with friendly German neighbours either side of us.

Sunday 26th October:  Paul wound the awning out, put the weather station on the roof along with Michael and we sat in the sun/shade moving our chairs around the van most of the day accordingly!  Late afternoon we walked along the seafront in the shade of its many large hotels!

Monday 27th October:  We spent the day reading and nodding politely to our inquisitive neighbours.

Tuesday 28th October:  Left site 11.30 to head further south to another recommended site, inland, up in the hills behind Alicante.

In pouring rain, we drove for mile upon mile past orange groves, lemons, cherry and almond trees and navigated our way around the outskirts of Valencia with many holiday resorts on the coast in the distance.  We could see mountains ahead, their peaks just visible through the low cloud.  Leaving the main drag behind us, we drove up through some tiny villages as we headed up to the campsite at la Vall de Laguar, a pretty terraced site, nestled in the hillside, looking down on the rooftops of the local village and the sea 10km away in the distance.

Wednesday 29th October:  Rained all night, the van chilly in the morning.  We walked down into the village – at the wrong time – the only shop was shut!

Having been told that the owner of the campsite cooks excellent traditional meals and fancying a break from the stove, we went to the campsite restaurant in the evening to sample some of her homemade grub - bacon & spinach soup, a dish of scrambled eggs with local sausage, bacon and mountain fresh mushrooms (apparently made famous by Don Quixote), wild boar with chocolate, hake & asparagus on a bed of spaghetti, followed by a whisky flavoured ice cream and cheesecake with grapes, all for just €10 each!  A truly wonderful evening!

Thursday 30th October:  Sat in the van as we braced ourselves for the onslaught of snow we had heard was on its way!

Friday 31st October:  Phew! It didn’t snow but was a grey chilly day.

Late in the afternoon I wandered down to the village shop - it was still closed and I returned back up the hill to the campsite empty handed and out of breath.  Paul, convinced that by now, the shop would be open, set off down the hill a short while later - in his hurry out the door he could not have heard me say "have you got some money?" but typical of Paul, still managed to return with provisions, having left the poor old lady in the shop with no more than a big smile and the promise of hasta mañana!